Hydrating and conditioning face fluid

This hydrating and conditioning face fluid has been prepared for my School of Natural Skincare assignment for a Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation.

Properties of the face fluid:

The light emulsion with a nice smell of herbs and tonka is formulated for every type of skin but especially for oily or mixed skin without feeling oily or shiny (can be applied on the face as well as on the neck and décolleté).

Papaya fruit extract is rich in vitamins A and C; it has a regenerating and firming effect with a silky skin appearance as a result.

Green tea extract has a high content of polyphenols and can protect against environmental influences. Furthermore, it acts as a radical scavenger and antioxidant. Green tea extract is anti-inflammatory, regenerates damaged skin, has an astringent and toning effect.

Cranberry extract has a high content of antioxidants and omega fatty acids and therefore protects against oxidative damage. It also has an anti-aging, antiseptic and nourishing effect.

Vitamin A-C-E-Fluid regenerates the skin, improves its hydration, strengthens its elasticity, protects against free radicals.

INCI: Aqua, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Papaver Somniferum Seed Oil, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Glycerin, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Propylene glycol, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Sorbitol, Citric acid, Ascorbic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Glycerin, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Dipteryx odorata, Pentylene Glycol, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethylcellulosum 250 HX

Stage Ingredient % Amount in g
A Grape seed oil, refined 10.00% 10.00
A Mango butter 3.00% 3.00
A Babassu oil 1.00% 1.00
A Montanov 202/L 3.00% 3.00
B Water 41.00% 41.00
B Natrosol® 250 HX 0.30% 0.30
C Rosa water 31.70% 31.70
D Rice bran oil 2.00% 2.00
D Poppy seed oil 2.00% 2.00
D Cranberry oil 1.00% 1.00
D Cranberry extract 1.00% 1.00
D Green tea extract 1.00% 1.00
D Papaya extract 1.00% 1.00
D Vitamin A-C-E Fluid 0.50% 0.50
D Tonka essential oil, 70% Alcohol 0.50% 0.50
D Rokonsal BSB-N 1.00% 1.00
  TOTAL 100.00% 100.00

Formulation procedure:

Stage A In a beaker, heat the butter, oils and montanov 202 to around 75C, stirring continuously to ensure that the emulsifier and butter melt properly.
Stage B In a separate beaker (at least 150 ml) heat the water and add the natrosol. After a short chemical reaction (foam will form) the nice gel will be formed.
Stage C Add the hydrosol to stage B and mix until homogeneity. Heat oil and water phases to the same temperature (around 75C). Slowly pour the water phase into the beaker containing the oil phase and whisk/stir rhythmically until the emulsion has formed (One-Pot-Method is also possible).
Stage D At the cool down stage, add all components of Stage D to the emulsion and blend until homogeneity. Measure the pH of the emulsion and adjust if required (must be lower than 5.5). Add preservative, double-check the pH and adjust if required.

THIS IS WHAT I AM CALLING “THE SWIFT SKIN CARE”: the fluid can be used day and night (so, “two-in-one product”) but you have to use the refined grape seed oil as otherwise it will oxidize quickly in daylight.  In case you use non-refined grape seed oil in order to benefit from all the nice properties of the oil, then use the product as a night care only.


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