This refreshing and slightly lifting mask has been prepared for my Formula Botanica assignment for a certificate in Facial Masque Therapy.
INCI: Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Kaolin, Glycerin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Xanthan gum, Rosa Damascena Pouder, Mel, Oriza sativa (rice) starch, Cocos nucifera, Sojalecithin, Ascorbic acid, Rosmarinus officinalis, Paeonia officinalis, Benzyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Aqua, Tocopherol, Rosa Damascena (incl.Citral, eugenol, geraniol, citronellol, linalool, farnesol)
Properties of the mask:
The mask has a refreshing and slight lifting effect and can be removed after 10 min. with water or with a cleansing wipe.
The mask gives the feeling of a deep cleansed and blood-enriched skin.
The texture of the end product (activated mask) is very smooth and applies homogeneously.
| Stage | Ingredient | % | Amount in batch (g) |
| Phase 1 | |||
| A | Solubol | 2.00% | 1.00 |
| A | Rose, 10% | 0.50% | 0.25 |
| B | Glycerite with dried rose | 18.20% | 9.10 |
| B | Xanthan gum | 0.50% | 0.25 |
| C | Row honey | 6.00% | 3.00 |
| C | Aloe vera gel, bio | 8.00% | 4.00 |
| C | Rose hydrosol, bio | 31.10% | 15.55 |
| D | Preservative K | 0.70% | 0.35 |
| Phase 2 | |||
| E | Kaolin (white clay) | 20.00% | 10.00 |
| E | Rose de damas | 8.00% | 4.00 |
| E | Rice powder | 4.00% | 2.00 |
| E | Peony powder | 1.00% | 0.50 |
| TOTAL | 100.00% | 50.00 |
| Formulation procedure: | |
| Stage A | Blend both components together. |
| Stage B | Blend both components so that the xanthan is fully dissolved in the glycerine. |
| Stage C | Add all components of Stages B and C to Stage A and blend until homogeneity. Measure the pH of the emultion and adjust if required (must be lower than 5.5). |
| Stage D | Add preservative, double-check the pH and adjust if required. |
| Stage E | Mix all components of Stage E together. |
How to use:
Gradually add the “powder” phase (Stage E) to the “water” phase (Stages A-D) stirring gently the whole time until you have a smooth homogeneous paste.
Some observations and comments:
- Important: clay-based facial masks are very difficult to preserve because the clay absorbs most of the preservative. Initially, I tried to mix all components (Stages A-E) in one final product by adding 1.5% preservative and even with extra preservation of the hydrosol (using Ethanol and Potassium Sorbate), but the final product failed the microbiological test (Schuelke mikrocount® duo) with a horrible result. So, finally, I decided to follow the advice of Formula Botanica and make two separate phases (Stages A-D and Stage E) that can be mixed together just before application of the mask.
- The mask is formulated in the way that the final product will contain 67% “water” phase and 33% “powder” phase that results in a nice smooth creamy paste.
- The “water” phase must be preserved.