Refreshing and hydrating face mask

This refreshing and hydrating mask has been prepared for my Formula Botanica assignment for a certificate in Facial Masque Therapy.

Properties of the mask:

The mask has high hydrating properties. It has an extremely light texture and feels very refreshing on the skin.

The mask is formulated for every type of skin (can be applied on the face as well as on the neck and décolleté and can be removed after 20 min. with water or with a cleansing wipe).

Additionally, brightening properties of the product are contributed to with such components as Kombu brown seaweed and Siberian larch wood extract as well as with citron hydrosol and citron essential oil.

INCI: Aqua, Citrus limonum, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Prunus persica Kernel Oil, Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosedes (and) Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Glycerin, Rubus idaeus seed oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Urea, Larix sibirica wood extract, Cucumis sativus (Cucumber) propylenglycol extract, Phosphatidylcholine, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Tryglyceride, Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Soy Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethylcellulosum 250 HX, Laminaria digitatam DL-alpha-Tocopherol, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oleth-20, Asparagus Officinalis Root Extract, Sodium Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate 

StageIngredient%Amount in g
AXyliance5.00%5.00
ACocoa butter5.00%5.00
 Mango butter2.00%2.00
APeach kernel oil8.00%8.00
AGrape seed oil10.00%10.00
ARed raspberry seed oil2.00%2.00
APomegranate seed oil2.00%2.00
ABaobab seed oil2.00%2.00
AFluidlecithin super1.00%1.00
BNatrosol0.20%0.20
BGlycerite with dried rose2.00%2.00
CWater30.00%30.00
CCitron hydrosol24.60%24.60
CCarbamide moisture crystals1.00%1.00
CHyaluron high molecular weight0.10%0.10
CHyaluron low molecular weight0.10%0.10
DSiberian larch wood extract1.00%1.00
DCucumber extract1.00%1.00
DNFF Complex (Moisturising Factor)0.50%0.50
DKombu brown seaweed extract0.50%0.50
DTocopherol0.50%0.50
DCitron essential oil0.50%0.50
ECosgard1.00%1.00
 Total 100.00%100.00

Formulation procedure:

Stage AIn a beaker, heat the butter, lecithin, oils and xyliance to around 60C, stirring continuously to ensure that the emulsifier and butter melt properly
Stage BBlend both components so that the natrosol is fully dissolved in the glycerin
Stage CIn a separate beaker, warm the hydrosol and water so that it reaches the same temperature as the contents of the first beaker, dissolve all the components of Stage C in the mixture until homogeneity
Add Stage B to Stage C and blend until homogeneity
Slowly pour the warmed Stage B+C into the beaker containing the oil-butter-lecithin-emulsifier blend and whisk/stir rhythmically until the emulsion has formed.
Stage DAt the cool down stage, add all components of Stage D to the emulsion and blend until homogeneity
Measure the pH of the emulsion and adjust if required (must be lower than 5.5).
Stage EAdd preservative, double-check the pH and adjust if required.

Some observations and comments:

The mask can be used as it is, or any powder ingredients of your choice can be added in order to reinforce the desired effect. Here are just some examples:

  1. White ginseng powder (rich in antioxidants, soothing, toning and stimulating)
  2. Cranberry powder (rich in powerful antioxidants, purifying, astringent, moisturizing)
  3. Activated charcoal (purifying and detoxifying)
  4. Spirulina powder (revitalizing and nutritious. Improves the suppleness and elasticity of the skin. Helps to prevent the appearance of wrinkles)
  5. Grinded dried rose petals (emollient, conditioning, moisture-retaining)
  6. Clays like Kaolin and others. Important: clay-based facial masks are very difficult to preserve because the clay absorbs most of the preservative. The mask should be mixed with clay just before application of the mask.

THIS IS WHAT I AM CALLING “THE SWIFT SKIN CARE”: you don’t need to have ten different masks; you just can have one base that will be modified according to your current needs.

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