Thanks to the light film that is created by beeswax, the cream protects the skin well in winter.
INCI: Citrus limonum, Prunus persica Kernel Oil, Cocos nucifera L., Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Cetearyl Alkohol and Cetearyl Glucoside, Cera Flava, Glycerin, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Xanthan gum
Stage | Ingredient | % | Amount in batch (g) |
A | Coconut oil | 10.00% | 5.00 |
A | Cocoa butter | 10.00% | 5.00 |
A | Peach kernel oil | 12.00% | 6.00 |
A | Beeswax | 2.00% | 1.00 |
A | Montanov TM 68 | 6.00% | 3.00 |
B | Glycerine | 2.80% | 1.40 |
B | Xanthan gum | 0.20% | 0.10 |
C | Citron Hydrosol | 55.50% | 27.75 |
D | Grapefruit Essential Oil | 0.50% | 0.25 |
D | Rokonsal | 1.00% | 0.50 |
TOTAL | 100.00% | 50.00 |
Formulation procedure: | |
Stage A | In a beaker, heat all components to around 70C, stirring continuously to ensure that the emulsifier and butter melt properly |
Stage B | Disperse xanthan in glycerine so that the xanthan is fully dissolved in the glycerine |
Stage C | Add hydrosol to Stage B and heat the water phase to around 70C. Slowly pour the water phase into the beaker containing the oil phase and whisk/stir rhythmically until the emulsion has formed (One-Pot-Method is also possible). |
Stage D | At the cool down stage, add all components of Stage D to the emulsion and blend until homogeneity. Measure the pH of the emulsion and adjust if required (must be lower than 5.4). Transfer to a jar or dispenser, leave to cool down and only then close the lid in order to avoid condensation |
Some comments:
Shelf-life of the cream is about three months.
Oils can be replaced with other heat stable oils.
Hydrosol can be replaced with any other available hydrosols or distilled water.
Essential oil can be replaced with any of your favourite fragrances or left out (in this case, do not forget to adjust your oil phase up to 100% of the final product).
Beeswax can be replaced with any other wax with the same or lower melting point, for example, floral wax (which are more delicate and fragrant, but also more expensive). However, in the case of floral wax, I would still use it in very moderate quantities as it has a very strong aroma (and combine with the beeswax or others).
